7-Day Lemosho Route Kilimanjaro From Arusha

After a long drive to Londorossi Gate and registration, a vehicle takes the group up a rough track as far as it can go, and the walk climbs through the upper forest and out onto the Shira plateau. Shira 1 is at about 3,500 m, so the first night is already at height.

Because this skips the lower forest, it is quicker but gives less gradual adjustment. Walk slowly, drink regularly and mention any symptoms early.

A shorter day across the plateau, with an optional walk to Shira Cathedral, a lava formation on the plateau's edge. The terrain is open, windy and sunny, and the ground is bare volcanic rock and tussock. Shira 2 stands at about 3,850 m.

The short distance is deliberate: it lets the body adjust before the Lava Tower day. Rest, drink and keep warm.

This is the day that does most of the work. You climb across the high moorland to the Lava Tower, a volcanic plug at about 4,600 m, stop for lunch, and then descend steeply to Barranco Camp at about 3,950 m. Going high and sleeping lower is the best natural help your body gets on the mountain.

Some people get a headache or feel nauseous at the tower. If that happens, tell your guide at once and do not push on; the descent usually helps. The valley at Barranco, with its giant senecio plants and the wall rising above camp, is one of the most memorable places on the route.

First thing in the morning the group queues at the Barranco Wall, a rocky scramble that takes an hour or two. It uses your hands in a few places but is not technical, and the guides and porters know the footing well. Afterward the trail crosses the Karanga valley and climbs gently to the camp at about 4,000 m.

This is a short day on purpose. Rest, drink and eat. It gives your body a quiet night at height before the move to the high camp, which is why many guides prefer itineraries that include it.

A short climb of three to four hours takes you out of the Karanga valley and up the ridge to Barafu, at about 4,600 m. The ground is bare rock and scree, with Kibo's southern face above. You arrive in time for lunch and an afternoon of rest, which is the point: the day is kept light so you start summit night with energy.

Camp is cold, windy and exposed, and there is no water, so the crew bring it from Karanga. Check your gear, charge a power bank in your sleeping bag, and try to sleep from late afternoon.

You are woken around midnight, drink something hot and start in the dark by head torch. The path is steep and zigzags up loose scree; the pace is very slow, with frequent pauses. It is freezing, often well below zero, and the hours before dawn are the hardest. Stella Point on the crater rim, at about 5,685 m, is where the sun usually rises and where many people cry.

From Stella Point it is a further walk along the rim to Uhuru Peak at 5,895 m, with glaciers and the crater floor beside you. You stay only briefly, take the photograph and turn back, because the descent is long: down the scree to Barafu for a short rest and on to Mweka Camp or Horombo depending on the route. The whole day often takes ten to fourteen hours.

The last morning is a few hours through forest on a well-made path, sore in the knees but easy in the lungs. Trekking poles are most useful here. At Mweka Gate you sign out, receive your summit certificate if you reached Stella Point or Uhuru Peak, and the crew gather for a farewell.

A vehicle then takes you back to your hotel, where you will want a hot shower. Tipping is normally done at the final camp or gate; your operator should give you a written guideline in advance.